When Meade Magazine received the invitation to visit Le Domaine Hotel in Spain’s Ribera del Duero, Valladolid, it was with little hesitation that we accepted. Call it journalistic curiosity, but something told us that the LD experience was not something we could forego.
And we were right, because this hotel – and the Abadia Retuera estate in which it resides, for that matter – is all in the details.
Like the personally allocated Butler who left us with a pre-dialled mobile phone, should we require speedy assistance day or night. And the optimum water temperature that housekeeping tirelessly returned our bath and shower taps to. Oh, and of course – the availability of nightly assistance with the unbelievable taxing decision of squishy pillow vs firmer pillow, should it be so desired. Yes. We know. Quite the conundrum.In other words, we were spoilt rotten. In fact, staying at Le Domaine felt quite like something out of the Downton Abbey / Gosford Park set. At our approach, staff would pause on the imposing 47 step (yes, we counted) staircase and greet us by name, and there seemed to be endless lines of waiters bearing silver trays of useful things – like water bottles, fresh towels and some particularly fetching rain hats – wherever we went.
Of course, all the mod-cons and insistence upon absolute first-class treatment is somewhat of an oxymoron to the archaic building and history. Parts of the estate hail from Romanic, Baroque and French Gothic architecture, and the interior is absolutely littered with period features and imported artefacts. Like the ancient books brought over from Switzerland in El Refectorio’s specially designed bookshelf. They bought 2000. What happens if guests suddenly begin reading and removing them? They’ll buy more. Obviously.
So it’s old. Surprisingly, though, there is none of the unpleasant associations with old-school infrastructure. The building is maintained at a toasty 23 degrees, so as to prevent damp or condensation affecting the historic architecture, and it is anything but spookey – when Andrés Araya, Director General of Abadia Retuerta LeDomaine, first began the restoration, he spent three months sleeping in the ruins. Which pretty much puts paid to any ghostly suggestions. Thank goodness.
The restoration that followed was a painstaking plight to bring the twelfth century monastery into the twenty-first century, whilst respecting the building’s heritage. So, we slept where the monks used to sleep, ate where they used to eat, and met where they used to work etc etc – you get the picture. Luckily, though, there is a limit to how far the hoteliers wish to emulate the Monks – indulgence at Le Domaine is positively rewarded. And we wasted no time embracing the very continental style of eating (i.e. late, and lots) – at last count our longest meal spanned nine courses plus coffee and a whopping three hours. Hardly surprising, then, that Pablo Montero and team have just recieved their first ever Michelin Star – whilst we ate our second dinner, no less. Celebrations all round – although it was swiftly pointed out that the achievement is merely step one on the path to Star two. This is a hotel with dreams.
Non-foodies? Fear not – there’s plenty to do besides eat. We spent much of our time exploring the grounds (there’s things like cycling, mushroom foraging and helicopter tours on offer), and had the most divine hour of pampering in one of two super-luxe Natura Bisse treatment rooms. There’s more to come, too – this time next year there will be a fully-fledged spa underneath the old stables. We will obviously need to go back.
@LeDomaineHotel
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